A great suit can transform how you look. It makes your shoulders broader and waist smaller. You also feel great because your lines look longer. To achieve such an effect, you will need to have a well-crafted suit made by a bespoke tailor. While renting a suit is a more comfortable and affordable alternative, nothing beats a customized suit. You can try your luck with off-the-rack suits, but the chances of finding a suit that fits perfectly are slim.
Regardless of the option you choose, here are six rules for a perfectly tailored outfit.
1. Hem the trousers
This rule is where most guys, celebrities included, commit a mistake in terms of tailored clothing. While you don’t have to follow the ankle-baring style of Thom Browne, any excess length will only make you look sloppy and short. A small break wherein the edge of your pants brushes the top of your shoes makes your overall look classy.
2. The shoulders must fit
The shoulder part of the suit jacket must feel as if it is hugging that area of your body. The jacket looks small if the shoulders are tight, and they look big if the seams sag past the shoulder line, similar to most workday suits.
Even experienced tailors do not want to mess with the shoulder part of off-the-rack suits because it can ruin the entire jacket. Likewise, it is an alteration that requires delicate cuts and weaves because the shoulders must be tailored precisely.
3. Hem the sleeves
While over-long sleeves are not as pervasive of a problem as short trousers, it still is a concern. The jacket sleeve must end a quarter-inch to half-inch before your skirt sleeve, and it’s better to show some of the cuffs. A jacket sleeve that is hitting your knuckles means that it is too long.
If the buttons on your cuffs are not working, trimming from the hem up and moving them is a cheap and quick remedy. Meanwhile, fixing cuffs with working buttons is more labor-intensive and expensive because it must be altered from the shoulders. This fix will still make your suit jacket look better than the one grazing the knuckles.
4. Mind the collar gap
This concern may not be visible to you, but everyone else may notice it. A suit jacket collar that does not fit well to your neck will sit away from your shirt collar to leave a gap. This fashion mishap may happen due to several factors, and tailors can help address non-severe cases.
However, anything bigger than a small gap is a problem, and you must steer clear from suits that manifest this concern unless you have a trusted tailor who can perform the necessary alterations.
5. Take in the jacket’s waist
Several suit jackets can accommodate men of bigger girths in the midsection. If you do not fall into this category, then the coat may look like a box until the waist area of the fabric undergoes adjustment. However, it’s not wise to go aggressive on this alteration because you must factor in comfortability when moving. The rule of thumb is to fit a closed fist between the suit jacket and the shirt while the top button is fastened.
6. Slim the sleeves and taper the trousers
Men obsess themselves by making their pants narrower in hopes of making the suit lines longer. They also feel that this adjustment will help create a tailored silhouette. You can follow their lead by tapering your trousers and the sleeves of your suit jacket. Though your tailor may find it challenging to deal with the lines, it provides a polished look that lasts.
None of these rules will work if you don’t have a tailor who can effectively alter suits or build one for you from scratch using your measurements. Find a bespoke tailor now who follows the guidelines above for you to get the perfect suit.
If you are looking for a bespoke tailor in Bangkok who will tailor the perfect suit for you, get in touch with us today to see how we can help.